Nestled deep within the Ampara District of Sri Lanka’s Eastern Province lies Nuwaragala Mountain, a towering peak that quietly witnesses a forgotten era. Unlike the popular paths of Sigiriya or Adam’s Peak, Nuwaragala remains a hidden treasure, a rugged rock fortress waiting for adventurous travelers. More than just a challenging hike, a trip to Nuwaragala is a journey into Sri Lanka’s ancient past. It offers a rich blend of history, myth, and the fading voices of the island’s indigenous people.
This article will be your guide to Nuwaragala, highlighting its historical importance, the natural beauty surrounding it, and vital information for taking on this remarkable adventure.
- A Rock Steeped in Legend and History
Nuwaragala, also called Nuwaragala Kanda, is not just a mountain; it holds a wealth of history and stories. Its name, translating to “City Rock” or “Fortress Rock,” suggests its past significance. Archaeological ruins scattered across its slopes and summit provide evidence of a complex civilization that once thrived here. While much of its history remains a mystery due to limited excavations, various historical accounts and local legends paint a picture of its past.
The Royal Refuge: One captivating story linked to Nuwaragala is its association with the royal family of the Anuradhapura Kingdom. It is believed to have served as a hideout for King Saddhatissa, the younger brother of the great King Dutugemunu. During a bitter conflict, Saddhatissa reportedly sought safety in this natural fortress, using its height and hidden caves to escape his brother’s forces. The ruins of a large “palace” at the mountain’s summit, complete with a rock pool similar to Sigiriya’s, support the idea of a royal residence.
The Monastery of King Lajja Tissa: Another theory, backed by noted archaeologist Ellawala Medhananda Thera, suggests that Nuwaragala was an important Buddhist monastery. It is thought to have been established by King Lajja Tissa, son of King Saddhatissa, who ruled from 119 to 109 BCE. The presence of a large cave designed for more than 150 monks, along with other monastic remnants, supports this interpretation. The peaceful and remote nature of the location would have made it perfect for meditation and spiritual growth.
The City of Prince Giri Abaya: A third, equally intriguing theory suggests that Nuwaragala may be the site of “Giri Nuwara,” the city of Prince Giri Abaya. Chronicles state that Giri Abaya was married to Princess Soma, sister of King Kavantissa. A clash with his nephew, Prince Dutugemunu, is said to have forced him to leave his mountain fortress and move elsewhere.
No matter which theory is accurate, Nuwaragala symbolizes the skill and creativity of ancient Sri Lankans. The detailed stonework, the remains of a pathway to the summit, and the impressive rock pool all reflect a culture that mastered its rugged landscape.
- A Sanctuary of Nature and Wildlife
Along with its historical importance, Nuwaragala attracts ecotourists. Positioned in Sri Lanka’s dry zone, it is part of the Gal Oya mountain range and borders the beautiful Maduru Oya National Park. The trek to the mountain is an adventure, filled with vibrant life.
A Rugged Ecosystem: The surrounding jungle is rich with flora and fauna. As you hike, you might see wild elephants, sloth bears, wild boars, and various deer species. The area is also a haven for birdwatchers, hosting a wide range of native and migratory birds.
The Vedda Connection: Nuwaragala is particularly significant for Sri Lanka’s indigenous Vedda community. Nearby is Pollebedda, home to one of the last remaining Vedda clans. For centuries, the Vedda people have lived in this land, and their deep connection to Nuwaragala is captured in the writings of British physician and anthropologist R.L. Spittel, especially in his book Vanished Trails. A guided tour with a local Vedda leader can offer valuable insight into their ancient lifestyle and the stories passed down through generations.
The Summit and its Views: The climb’s reward is the stunning panoramic view from the top. From this height, you can see a vast stretch of green, dotted with ancient reservoirs such as Borupola Wewa, Rukam Wewa, and Unnichchiya Wewa. Witnessing the sunrise from the summit is a spiritual experience, casting the landscape in shades of gold and orange.
- The Journey: A Traveler’s Guide
Getting to Nuwaragala is not just a simple tourist trip; it requires preparation and a sense of adventure.
Location and Getting There: Nuwaragala is located in the Maha Oya Divisional Secretariat, a rural area in the Ampara District. While its remote setting helps it maintain its natural beauty, it also means public transport options are limited.
By Car: The easiest way to reach the mountain is by car. From Ampara town, take the A4 highway toward Maha Oya. The last part of the road to the mountain’s base is often rough and unpaved, so a vehicle with good clearance is recommended.
Public Transport: For budget travelers, the trip involves multiple stages. Take a bus from Ampara to Gonagalukanda, a small town near the mountain. From there, you’ll need to hire a tuk-tuk for the remaining distance.
Hiring a Guide: This is strongly recommended. The trails can be confusing, and wild animals inhabit the area. A local guide, especially someone from the Vedda community, will not only help ensure your safety but also enhance your experience with their extensive knowledge of the land, its history, and its plants and animals.
The Hike: The hike is moderately challenging. While it may not be as high as some of Sri Lanka’s peaks, the terrain is rugged, featuring a mix of flat areas, dense forests, and steep, rocky climbs. The last part of the ascent involves an exposed rock face, which can be especially difficult in the intense sun.
What to Bring: Good hiking shoes are essential. Bring plenty of water to stay hydrated in the heat. Sunscreen, a hat, and a first-aid kit are also necessary. If you plan to camp overnight, which is a popular choice, make sure you have all the needed gear.
Best Time to Visit: The ideal time to visit is during the dry season, from March to September. During this period, the trails are less muddy, and the weather is clearer. Even in the dry season, it’s best to begin your hike early in the morning to avoid the midday heat.
- A Plea for Preservation
As Nuwaragala attracts more visitors, the need for responsible tourism increases. The mountain is not a park with manicured paths and trash cans; it is a delicate ecosystem and a historical site. Visitors have a responsibility to reduce their environmental impact.
Pack In, Pack Out: Take all your trash with you and leave no trace behind.
Respect the History: Do not deface ancient ruins or caves with graffiti.
Respect the Culture: If you hire a guide or interact with the local Vedda community, do so respectfully.
Nuwaragala Mountain is more than a destination; it offers an experience that connects you with Sri Lanka’s raw, untamed spirit. It provides a glimpse into a lost world where kings sought refuge, monks meditated in silence, and an ancient community thrived in harmony with nature. For travelers looking for an adventure that is both physically and spiritually fulfilling, Nuwaragala is one of the island’s most captivating secrets.